Walking Seminars:

Context’s walking seminars of Paris are much more than a typical walking tour. Their network of historians, architects, curators, writers, sommeliers and chefs help the intellectually curious traveler understand and investigate Paris on a deeper level. They have a diverse weekly calendar of small group walks (limited to 6 people) or they can organize any of their walks for a private party to suit individual schedules.

The three-hour walks of museums, art galleries and other monuments are complemented by thematic explorations of the city. Some of the Paris highlights include:

* Louvre: French Masters – delve into awe-inspiring paintings accompanied by an art historian, curator or artist
* Le Restaurant: A Paris Invention – understand and enjoy the evolution of restaurant dining along with a food historian at Lapérouse Restaurant
* Marais Mansions – explore the Golden Age of sixteenth century architecture with a Parisian architect
* Medieval Life & Society – relive the Middle-Ages through the eyes of a medievalist
* Paris Food Crawl – get a behind the scenes visit of boulangeries, fromageries and specialty shops led by a food writer
* City of Light at Night – explore the evening ambiance of Paris while strolling along some of the city’s beautifully lit streets

Context also offers private half and full day excursions from Paris (Chartres, Reims, Vaux le Vicomte, Rouen and Giverny). In addition, they can develop custom tours catering to their clients travel requests in and outside Paris.

For full details please see: www.contexttravel.com/?ref=HIP
Or contact us at info@contexttravel.com
from abroad: +1 215 609 4471 (this is a U.S. number that rings in France)

within France: 01 72 81 36 35

Text Erica Berman Photos – courtesy of Hidden Kitchen & Erica Berman

Hidden Kitchen private supper club in Paris

With no idea what to expect, and no expectations to fulfill, we were unexpectedly seduced and delighted by this underground Parisian dining extravaganza. Expertly run by a young American couple, the food has a fresh US slant not so common in France. In over 16 years of fooding in Paris I have experienced a lot of Paris’ culinary treats, and I can honestly say that this was one of the best meals I have had in the city of lights.
We arrived semi-early, for fear of being late, at a lovely Parisian apartment (can’t say where , or it wouldn’t be hidden anymore) with wood floors, crown moldings, marble fireplaces, soothing colors and candles everywhere.
Laura met us kindly with an aperitif while Braden prepared courses in the kitchen, and their adorable Boston terrier Tattie puttered around discreetly.

Hidden Kitchen Paris will celebrate 2 years of sensory stimulation in June. It started as once a month get together to help Laura and Braden widen their circle of Parisian friends. The speedy success of the supper club pushed it to a bi-weekly exclusive foodie gathering. The first people we met were a lovely couple from London in town to run the half marathon. The 2nd people to arrive, we knew! Tom and Linda are former clients from California that we befriended and see from time to time as they are often in Paris for work, but we had no idea they were coming. Small world it is! The group was rounded out to 15 with a group of  4 Americans from Berkeley California, and a lively group of young Americans who we did not get to chat with as they were on the far end of the long, and elegantly decorated, table. My boyfriend Alain was one of two Frenchies in the bunch.

I admit when I heard that this was a 10 course 80€ per person meal, I thought that a. I could never eat 10 courses and,  b. 80€ was a lot of money per person for a meal. After the dinner, I can happily say that it was money very well spent and the courses were small and light enough to enable me to get through them all without feeling overwhelmed or over full. All in all, the food was perfect and the wine pairing right on the mark, conversation easily flowing, and midnight rolled around effortlessly. I could go into detailed explanations of all the fabulous courses, but I think I will just post the menu here and you can form your own idea of what a fine culinary experience it was! Reservations required as Hidden Kitchen books well in advance!

Hidden Kitchen: www.hkmenus.com

HK on Chowhound

HK on Chocolate and Zucchini

HK on Gridskipper

Text Genevieve Sandifer

Paris Apartment rental Spotlight – Sleek Opulence in the Heart of Paris: This week on the HiP Blog we bring you an inside look into one of our favorite properties of the moment: our Rameau two-bedroom flat, located right smack in the mythical heart of Paris. The Louvre, Palais Royal, Tuileries Gardens and the Seine river are the backdrop for this exquisitely decorated pied-a-terre.  Designed by a fashionable French architect and decorated with impeccably cohesive taste by the young and hip French-American owners, this apartment harmoniously channels edgy modern with classic flair. The soothing, lilac-toned entrance, with a charming Louis XV  loveseat for shopping bags and Louis-Philippe marble-top table for keys, leads into the large black-and-white tiled chef’s kitchen.

The bright, Southern-exposed living room, with its creative mix of Ligne Roset leather sofas, classic Mies van der Rohe style chairs and stately Napoleon III desk, emanates sophisticated lounging after a long day of shopping.  During any down time between shopping and dining, the eclectic and thought-provoking book and DVD collection will keep even the fussiest channel-surfers occupied. Down the hall, the bedrooms are soothing havens from Paris’ hustle and bustle. Streamlined yet cozy, they convey sleek and playful; old and new; classic and irreverent – with ample closet space for holiday acquisitions.

Both soothing, neutral-toned bathrooms, inspired by a Japanese-influenced taste for order and space, feature rain showers, soft lighting and plenty of room to unwind and pamper. With an impressive and eclectic collection of artwork and seamless mixing-and-matching of time periods and styles, this apartment is a sensorial feast for anyone with a penchant for classic irreverence.

To Check out this wonderful Paris rental flat: haveninparis.com/rental/Rameau.php

Former guest Reviews of this Paris apartment - haveninparis.com/propreviews/Rameau.php

Text Erica Berman

While most people don’t come to Paris for pizza, if you get the urge for a fix of authentic Italian eats, the Golfe de Naples is the place to go. This bustling inconspicuous restaurant nestled on a corner behind the Bd St. Germain by the Marché St. Germain is hopping from the moment it opens to the moment it closes. Tables are tightly packed, privacy minimal, service brisk but friendly, and food tasty and simple. Thick-crusted and chewy pizza from the wood burning stove is a favorite and is churned out quickly and efficiently by the pizzaiolo (note from Erica: try the Verdura – bufala mozzarella, arugula and tomato sauce). Pasta and antipasti are also excellent choices. Make sure to arrive early (19:30-20:00); tables fill quickly. This is not the spot for a quiet romantic dinner, nor for cheap eat (2 pizzas, a bottle of water & 2 coffees will run you about 35-40€), but it is ideal for a quick Italian fix before heading out to catch a film at one of the many movie theaters in the St. Germain des Pres neighborhood, or for a digestive walk along the Seine to Notre Dame.

Le Golfe de Naples

8, Rue Clément
75006 Paris
01 40 46 94 81

Metr0: Odeon, Mabillon or  St Germain des Pres

Google Map

Text and photography by: Genevieve Sandifer

Although we all want to channel a little Coco Chanel/Edith Piaf/Laetitia Casta while wandering through St. Germain, the price points attached to the fashion dream can be more than a little dissuasive. Here to rescue the dream felled by “recessionitis”: Thank God I’m a VIP, a gem of a vintage store located just east of Pl. de la République in the up-and-coming 10th arrondissement.

Unlike overpriced vintage stores the world over, TGI’mVIP houses an incredibly well selected and affordably priced collection of vintage designer pieces. Racks of color-coordinated items range from knee-length, satin, Yves St. Laurent “jupons” (under 150€) to Alaia high-waisted trousers, with Lacoste jumpers splashed in between here and there; you will actually feel inclined (and able!) to entirely redesign your approach to everyday classics.

And if the ground floor isn’t in your price range, the basement houses a less-expensive-but-no-less-thought-out alternative thrift collection. Between slightly questionable 60s peasant blouses and gorgeous, Indian, brocade full-length coats (25€), you’re sure to find something to go with your Café Crème at the Flore.

Happy Shopping!

Thank God I’m a VIP

12 rue de Lancry

Paris, 75010

tel: 01 42 03 02 09

www.thanxgod.com

metro: Republique ou Jacques Bonsergent

Text – Erica Berman    Friday Feb 20, 2009

After many years of living Paris the beauty of the city is often lost behind the cloudy grey weather and daily train-train*.  Often I find I must make a concerted effort to find the time to take advantage of this beautiful city.

Yesterday, a sunny day, I decided to steal a few hours in town. First stop: the Passerelle de Solferino, a small bridge across the Seine from Musee D’Orsay to the Tuilerie gardens, to admire the spectacular view up and down the river Seine. Second stop: A leisurely walk across the Tuileries Gardens to the Robert Frank photo expo at the Jeu de Paume museum.

Next – looking for lunch, always a favorite pass time: Down an alleyway behind the Tuileries gardens we stumbled upon Lesclure a small bustling French bistro, so bustling in fact, that there was no room for the two of us. This is the true Parisian bistro with the zinc counter top, checkered table cloths, back to back clients on long communal tables, a constant hubbub of diners and, of course, classic French cuisine. We will be back. 
 After a bit of  flaner* et leche vitrine* including a stop at the English bookstore Brentano’s, and the Official Paris Tourist office rue de Pyramides for some brochures, and we ended up in the Japanese neighborhood. This small quartier behind Opera, nestled b/w La Bourse, Pyramides and Palais Royal, is replete with a plethora of authentic Japanese restaurants, shops, travel agents and supermarkets.
Yi-Ping,  the Japanese restaurant on rue St Anne where we finally dined , strangely resembled a Chinese restaurant. A boui-boui* with smiling, albeit, non French speaking (but very Chinese) service and a tasty surprise. Steamed vegetable raviolis, Beef & mushrooms, and wok noodles with shrimp and veggies. Good food & a great price of 20€50. Note: This restaurant is not for those who want Hip ambiance, but for those who seek authentic ethnic cuisine.

Last stop  Zen Zoo for our favorite bubble tea. This hip Japanese restaurant and Salon de The (tea room) is a hub of activity. They even offer tea tasting classes.  Bubble tea is an odd, but delicious concoction. Hot sesame tea with milk & tapioca pearls for me and chilled Passion fruit tea with tapioca pearls for Alain.  The food here is great too. It’s a bustling fast paced canteen and people watching at its best.
On the way home a little Moroccan hole in the wall caught my eye and I went in to get the card. The chipper owner, in the midst or preparing Oriental delicacies, explained that he has been there for 40 years and now only opens for the neighborhood regulars and those who want to bien manger  (eat well).*
“No noodles here!” he said. He mentioned that if we wanted to dine in his restaurant, we had best hurry before he is off and retired, and we had also best call before heading in as he is not open on a regular basis but as his mood dictates. Another one for the list…  Le Caprice – Fanfan et Laurette.  Now we just need the time!

Useful Vocabulary:

train-train*  -  Daily routine. Monotonous repetition of  daily tasks and routines.  French – Routine, repetition monotone des acts quotidiens.

flaner* – Verb.  Walk with no  precise destination in mind.  Do nothing, and with pleasure. French – Se promener sans but precis. Perdre son temps avec plaisir, paresser.

leche vitrine*  - Noun. Strolling along and looking in the windows of storefronts. French - fait de flâner dans une ville en regardant les vitrines des magasins

boui-boui* – Noun. Small  inexpensive restaurant, canteen, hole in the wall.  French – petit restaurant, gargote.

Useful Addresses:

Zen Zoo

Paris Tourist Office

Paris Tourist office Info

Brentano’s English Speaking Bookstore in Paris

Review – Lesclure Restaurant in Paris

Robert Frank Expo at the Jeu de Paume in Paris

Review – Restaurant le Caprice de Fanfan et Laurette Paris

Review – Yi Ping Restaurant Paris

Bubble tea Wikiedia

Same services, same amenities, drastically different budgets

Photo courtesy of Haven in Paris

Text by Genevieve Sandifer

When you think vacation, what first springs to mind? Finally getting a full night’s sleep in luxurious sheets, sleeping in ‘til noon, lifelong friendships that spring from random chance encounters in corner cafés, soaking in the sun without a care in the world… But as you surely well know, thanks to falling currencies and the pervasive doom-and-gloom attitude, everyone is being a little more careful about throwing money away for a little square of paradise. Staying in “budget” hotels, though, can often be worse than not getting away at all: questionable cleanliness, rude concierges, cigarette-tinged rooms, second-rate sheets and towels… you’d be better off at home.

We made a few calls, did a little research and put together a shortlist of the rates of some of Paris’ notable higher-end hotels, and compared them to how much you would spend for the same standards of luxury in a Haven in Paris property — to show you show you just how advantageous having your own home away from home can be. Click through for step-by-step price comparisons…

Now, more than ever, renting an apartment seems like the only way to have the living standards you’re looking for, without shelling out the inflated rates hotels feel entitled to charge tourists desperate for a getaway. Luckily, there’s Haven in Paris. All of the Haven in Paris properties are outfitted with the amenities you’re used to finding in luxury hotels: plush and bountiful linens, fresh flowers and complementary wine, flat-screen TVs with international channels… Except HIP goes the extra mile. We provide expertly decorated, elegant spaces with breathtaking views instead of four-walls-and-a-bathroom; plentiful closet space instead of a luggage rack; fully equipped kitchens with state-of-the-art appliances instead of a limited, overpriced room-service menu; computers and free WIFI instead of minute-rates for internet service you can’t seem to connect to. With all this, it’s hard to believe it costs less to stay in one of our luxurious properties – but it is! And we can prove it.

First, take a look at our weekly prices*:

Livingstone penthouse – 775 euros/week for 2 people (studio, 1 bath), or approx 55 euros/night/person

Elzevir – 1550 euros/week for 4 people (1 bedroom, 1 bath), or approx 55 euros/night/person

Rosiers – 1850 euros/week for 4 people (2 bedrooms, 1 bath), or approx 60 euros/night/person

St Germain Luxe – 2295 euros/week for 4 people (2 bedrooms, 2 bath) or approx 82 euros/night/person

Monceau – 2300 euros/week for 6 people (2 bedrooms, 2 bath, real sofabed in living room), or approx 55 euros/night/person

Roi Doré – 3350 euros/week for 8 people (3 bedrooms, 2 bath, sofa bed in living room), or approx 60 euros/night/person

… and that’s just a taste of the more than 20 handpicked properties we offer.

Now take a look at the rates of hotels offering the same type of amenities and standards of hospitality (in order of least to most expensive)*:

Mama Shelter:
2 people, rates ranging from 89 to 219 euros/night
4 people, rates ranging from 178 to 438 euros/night
Average week for 2 people: 1078, or 77 euros/night/person
Average week for 4 people: 2156 euros, or 77 euros/night/person

Hotel Particulier Montmartre:
2 people in standard room: 290 euros/night
4 people in luxury suite (2 beds, 1 bath): 490 euros/night
Average week for two people: 2030 euros, or 145 euros /night/person
Average week for four people: 3430 euros, or 123 euros/night/person

Hotel Montalembert:
2 people in standard queen room: 320 euros/night
4 people in adjoining rooms: 400 euros/room/night = 800 euros/night
Average week for two people: 2240, or 160 euros/person/night
Average week for four people: 5600, or 200 euros/person/night

Hotel Costes:
2 people in a standard room, with a queen-sized bed: 550 euros/night
4 people in two standard rooms: 1100 euros/night
Average week for two people: 3850 euros
Average week for four people: 7700 euros
Average price/person/night: 275 euros/night/person

Hotel Le Bristol:
2 people, standard room: 750 euros/night
4 people in 2 adjacent rooms with a living room: 3150 euros/night
Average week for 2 people: 5250 euros, or 375 euros/night/person
Average week for 4 people: 22,050, or 787 euros/night/person

Hotel George V:
2 people, standard rooms without living area: 730 – 895 euros/night
2 people, rooms with small living area: 1040 euros/night
4 people, suite communicating with deluxe room: 2890/night
Average week for 2 people: 6218, or 444 euros/night/person
Average week for 4 people: 20,230, or 722 euros/night/person

… need we say more? Visit us at haveninparis.com for a full list of affordable luxury vacation apartments.

*Prices listed based on low-season, non-discounted rates

**Prices listed are approximate, not guaranteed and based on low-season rates.

Photo Erica Berman – view from bedroom window

Text Erica Berman

Feb 1, 2009 -  Tonight we head toward our B&B I found in La Creuse, a little known & lovely region of France. Orleans, to Vierzon to Le Chatre to Boussac..la Creuse. We arrive in fog and drizzle to a little village in the middle of nowhere welcomed warmly at our chambre et table d’hotes  by a lovely transplanted English couple….Paul, a butcher, found his niche as the English butcher in the French ‘boucherie’ shop. There are so many Brits here that they needed someone they could communicate with. Lois is a massage therapist who now dedicates herself to the Bed & Breakfast . Tea, a fire, a cat and dog. We show Paul and Lois how to make their wireless Internet work …. they are pessimistic of potential success and then grateful and surprised when we succeed. As it is Sunday night  all is closed and we have reserved a meal (20 eurs per person). Homemade  green vegetable soup and creme fraiche, duck with green beans and salad, gratin dauphinois, chocolate cake and more crème fraiche, and oranges in a morroccan sauce, tea… yumm!

Full and with borrowed DVD, we settled into our king sized bed and luxury sheets after a wash up with the thick Egyptian cotton towels, white of course!! All of this for 70 Euros a night~

Breakfast – brioche, baguette, coffee, fruit salad, granola, cereal.. and fresh juice. No time to visit the XV century chateau…a small winding route through mist and hills and little towns with thick stone houses and farms. La france profound. This is the actual center of France. Highly populated by the English…. who come for the quality of life and the tranquility.  La Creuse, is one of the regions the least populated of France. We will be back to discover a bit more in depth.

“Made up of three departments, the Haute-Vienne, Creuse and the Correze and to the west of the Massif Centrale the Limousin is one of the most rural regions in France and is perfect for anyone wanting tranquility and remote, unspoiled landscapes. The area is littered with ancient churches, castles and villages creating a timeless feel that transports you to another era. Although peaceful there is plenty to do – satisfying even the for most active of people. With numerous rivers and lakes making it an excellent area for fishing, canoeing, kayaking, sailing and fishing as well as a myriad of other outdoor activities.”

Our Bed & Breakfast:  www.limousin-chambres-bb.com/contact.html

To read more on this fabulous region – La Creuse/Limousin:

www.frenchentree.com/france-limousin-tourism-leisure/DisplayArticle.asp?ID=38641

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creuse

Resident doggy

Photo Erica Berman

Text Erica Berman

Many hours of driving on winding roads, a near collision with a large male deer, and poor directions later we arrived at our Chambre D’hotes – Bed & Breakfast – Domaine de la Piale in the tiny town of Fons in the heart of the Lot one of France’s undiscovered, and my favorite, regions. It was dark and the curvy narrow road earthen and muddy. We arrived to discover a charming 18th century stone farm compound converted to B&B. The reasonably priced suite we rented included a spacious living room, king bed in the large bedroom, bathroom with tub and separate toilets. Stone floors, wood beams, antiques, artwork and green plants completed the decor. Waking up to the lovely misty views of the forest and rolling hills from the windows enhanced the cozy interior and comfy bed. French owners  Adeline and Bertrand Spindler have restored this 18th century ‘demeure’ with love, style and excellent taste.

The little village of Fons is a short walk down the dirt road. It is a tiny village of about 300 people in a small valley overlooking hills, fields and forest. There is a small chateau & dependances and lots of old stone. Don’t miss the one restaurant in Fons “la Halle” for an amazing prix fixe, 4 course, lunch of 11€50! This was one of the best homemade meals I have had in ages!

The Chambres D’Hotes Domaine de la Piale is conveniently located just 10km North of  Figeac, an adorable city of about 10,000 people. The lot is known for its Fois Gras de Canard, Gesiers, Magret de Canard stuffed with fois gras, duck pate, Rocamadour (little goat cheeses), and  Cahors  a regional wine . Figeac is a small village rich in history, well worth the detour. Don’t miss the bustling Saturday morning market that takes over the town ( food, produce, clothing,  linens, pot&pans, knives, organic, soap, honey, jam) Make sure show up early to avoid the crowds! The thick round loaves of country bread are not to be missed.

Our Bed & Breakfast: www.domainedelapiale.com

Information on the Lot: www.frenchentree.com

http://www.francethisway.com/places/figeac.php

http://www.tourism-figeac.com/about-pays-figeac/

Guide de Charme B&B in France – Domaine de la Piale and many more….